North Devon is one of England's most underrated destinations. Two days isn't enough — but here's how to make the most of them.
North Devon sits where the Bristol Channel meets the Atlantic, and the result is some of the most dramatic coastline in England. Wild beaches, clifftop walks, fresh seafood, Exmoor on the doorstep, and a pace of life that makes you wonder why you don't come more often.
We're based in Ilfracombe, right in the heart of the North Devon coast, and we've spent years exploring the area. Whether you're here for a long weekend, a half-term escape, or a spontaneous Friday night booking, here are eleven things you absolutely shouldn't miss.
1. Walk the Coast Path From Ilfracombe to Lee Bay
The South West Coast Path runs right through Ilfracombe, and one of its finest stretches heads west toward the village of Lee. It's about 45 minutes of clifftop walking with jaw-dropping views over the Bristol Channel — the kind of scenery that makes you stop and just stare for a minute.
Drop down into Lee village, a cluster of thatched cottages around a sheltered cove, and reward yourself with a pint at The Grampus Inn before walking back (or calling a taxi if your legs have had enough). The bay at Lee is beautiful for a swim if the weather cooperates.
Best for: Anyone who enjoys a walk. The path is well-maintained but has some steep sections, so wear proper shoes.
2. Surf at Woolacombe or Croyde
North Devon is home to some of the best surf in the UK. In 2023, the Save The Waves Coalition designated eighteen miles of this coastline as a World Surf Reserve — only the second in Europe.
Woolacombe is perfect for beginners: a long, forgiving beach with gentle waves and half a dozen surf schools ready to get you standing up in an afternoon. Croyde is where experienced surfers head — a punchier wave in a beautiful bay with a great après-surf scene in the village.
Even if you've never surfed before, an hour-long lesson is one of the most fun things you can do in North Devon. You'll be hooked.
Best for: Everyone. Surf schools cater for complete beginners from age 6 up.
15–20 minutes by car from Ilfracombe
3. Visit Tunnels Beach
One of North Devon's most unique attractions. In the 1820s, hand-carved tunnels were cut through the cliffs to provide access to a secluded bathing beach below. Walk through them today and you emerge onto a sheltered cove with a tidal bathing pool, rock pools, and dramatic cliff walls all around you.
It's magical — genuinely unlike any other beach in England. The Victorian bathing pool is safe for swimming, the rock pools are endlessly fascinating for kids, and the setting feels almost otherworldly.
Best for: Families, couples, and anyone who appreciates something a bit different. Check tide times before you go.
5 minute walk from FluidHome
4. Explore Lynton, Lynmouth and the Valley of Rocks
The twin villages of Lynton and Lynmouth are connected by a Victorian water-powered cliff railway — one of the most charming ways to travel anywhere in England. Lynmouth sits at the bottom where the East Lyn River meets the sea; Lynton perches on the cliff 500 feet above.
A short drive or walk from Lynton takes you to the Valley of Rocks, a dramatic dry valley where wild goats roam among towering rock formations with the sea crashing far below. It's one of the most spectacular natural landscapes in the South West.
Best for: A half-day trip. Combine the cliff railway, a walk through the Valley of Rocks, and cream tea in Lynmouth.
30 minutes by car from Ilfracombe
5. Eat Seafood on Ilfracombe Harbour
Ilfracombe is a working harbour, and the seafood comes straight off the boats. Whether you go for fish and chips from S&P eaten on the harbour wall, a set menu at the Michelin-listed Antidote, or tapas at The Terrace, the quality of the food here is remarkable for a town this size.
For the full experience, time your visit to see the fishing boats come in, then eat whatever they've landed. It doesn't get fresher than that.
Best for: Anyone who likes good food. See our full restaurant guide for specific recommendations.
6. Climb Capstone Hill at Sunset
Capstone Hill rises right from the harbour and offers one of the best vantage points on the North Devon coast. The walk up takes about ten minutes and rewards you with panoramic views over the town, the harbour, Lantern Hill, and out across the Bristol Channel to Wales.
Come at sunset and you'll understand why people fall in love with this place. It's a short loop — you can be up, stunned, and back down in under half an hour.
Best for: An evening stroll. Bring a drink if you're feeling romantic about it.
5 minute walk from FluidHome to the base
7. Visit Clovelly
Clovelly is one of Devon's most famous villages — a privately owned fishing village that tumbles steeply down a cliff to a tiny harbour. No cars are allowed; cobbled streets zigzag down past whitewashed cottages draped in flowers. It's impossibly picturesque.
There's an entry fee (currently around £9 for adults) which goes toward maintaining the village, and it's worth every penny. Explore the cobbled streets, visit the harbour, and have lunch at the Red Lion at the bottom. You can ride a Land Rover back up if the hill defeats you.
Best for: A morning or afternoon trip. Wear shoes with good grip — the cobbles are steep.
40 minutes by car from Ilfracombe
8. Go Wild Swimming
North Devon has some of the best wild swimming spots in the country. Tunnels Beach has the sheltered Victorian bathing pool. Lee Bay is a calm, beautiful cove surrounded by rocks. Barricane Beach near Woolacombe has crystal-clear water in a sheltered little cove.
Even if you only dip your toes, there's something about swimming in the sea in North Devon that feels restorative. Bring a towel, brace yourself, and get in. You'll feel amazing afterwards.
Best for: Brave souls and anyone who wants to feel properly alive. A wetsuit helps from October to May.
9. Drive Across Exmoor
Exmoor National Park begins just twenty minutes east of Ilfracombe, and a drive across it is one of the great experiences of the South West. Rolling moorland, wild ponies, ancient woodland, and views that stretch for miles in every direction.
Stop at Simonsbath for a pub lunch, drive the high moor road to Dunkery Beacon (the highest point in Exmoor), and keep an eye out for red deer. On a clear night, Exmoor is a designated International Dark Sky Reserve — the stargazing is extraordinary.
Best for: A day trip or afternoon drive. Pack layers — it's often cooler and windier than the coast.
20 minutes to the edge of Exmoor from Ilfracombe
10. See the Verity Statue and Explore the Harbour
Damien Hirst's 20-metre bronze statue of a pregnant woman holding a sword stands on the harbour pier, and whether you find it beautiful or unsettling, it's unforgettable. Verity has become Ilfracombe's icon — one of the most photographed landmarks in Devon.
Beyond the statue, the harbour itself is worth exploring: the small aquarium, the harbour master's office, the fishing boats, and the views across to Lantern Hill and Capstone. In summer, boat trips run from the harbour to spot seals, porpoises, and seabirds along the coast.
Best for: Everyone. It's free, it's fascinating, and it takes about an hour to explore properly.
5 minute walk from FluidHome
11. Have a Cream Tea (the Devon Way)
You cannot visit Devon without having a cream tea. The rules are sacred and non-negotiable: scone first, then clotted cream, then jam. This is Devon. Cornwall does it the other way round, and Cornwall is wrong.
Almost every café in Ilfracombe serves cream tea, but The Nook on the High Street does a particularly good one with homemade scones. For a more dramatic setting, head to the Larkstone Café on the seafront.
Best for: An afternoon treat. And yes — cream first, jam second. Always.
A Weekend Itinerary
Saturday: Walk the coast path to Lee Bay in the morning, pub lunch at The Grampus, afternoon on the beach. Evening: dinner at The Terrace Tapas.
Sunday: Morning surf lesson at Woolacombe, afternoon exploring Lynton and the Valley of Rocks. Evening: fish and chips on the harbour, sunset from Capstone Hill.
Your North Devon Base
FluidHome is a sea-view holiday apartment in the heart of Ilfracombe — the perfect base for exploring everything on this list. Walking distance to the harbour, coast path, restaurants, and pubs. Everything else is a short drive.